Himex uses the “Cesen route” to climb the mountain, using a basecamp and 4 higher camps up the mountain, and is done over a 67 day programme. This route joins up with the well known “Abruzzi route” further up the mountain, but we consider our route safer because it avoids the ‘Black Pyramid’ which is the first big obstacle on the Abruzzi.
The trip will start in Islamabad and from here we will fly to Skardu. From here we spend several hours in Jeeps driving to Askole before undertaking the 8 day trek to basecamp which is situated at around 5,200m. This relatively long trek to basecamp goes through the famous Shigar Valley and Baltoro Glacier region of Baltistan, where there are several high peaks situated in the world’s largest temperate zone glacier. An incredible 19 of the peaks in this region tower over 7,600m, while 4 of them are 8,000ers, making this trip to basecamp a unique experience, surrounded by such magnificence. During the trek we will stay each night at Jula, Paiju, Urdukus, Goro-II, Concordia before arriving at basecamp. It should be pointed out that unlike other trips into basecamp, we will be camping at each location rather than staying in lodges.
On the mountain we will aim to place camp 1 at around 6,050m, camp 2 around 6,700m, camp 3 at 7,400 and camp 4 at around 7,800 or potentially higher up the shoulder if possible to increase our chances of reaching the summit.
Summit day will start at around 11pm with an aim to be on the summit by 2pm. The route to the summit takes us through the famous ‘bottle neck’ section of the mountain, which is beneath the giant overhanging seracs which form an ice cliff to the east of the summit.