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Back
at high camp, the movement of Oxygen was our primary concern. I stumbled
to the Russian Camp, in which a lone women, who spoke no English was
in distress. Her three friends were missing. Her radio did not work.
But it was rumored Oxygen cylinders were stored in this tent, and we
had her expedition's permission to use them to help both our team and
the Russians trapped above. We rigged a radio transfer in which a Russian
team mate in ABC could talk to her, but we couldn't talk back. With
tears in her eyes, she tried to listen, but her heart was so full of
questions. She reluctantly gave me some Oxygen and two more of our Sherpas
set off, laden with the precious gas.
A few hours later a Russian stumbled down to us, and as we fed him tea
and dexamethazone, two new Russians climbed up to us.
"My partners are coming, only a short way back, but one has stopped
breathing."
" For how long?" I asked.
"More than 15 minutes."
"Well, after 8 minutes and it is too late."
" But you are American, you must have some adrenalin or other drug to
bring him back."
"OK try this." and I pulled a syringe from my kit and gave him the only
injectable drug I had: dexamethasone.
"But you better get going."
Within an hour, with Sherpas, American heros, Russian optimists, and
Jaime the Gautamalan, all spread along the few hundred feet of rock
and snow above high camp, I noticed a flash of yellow tumbling among
the rocks and through the sky. The Russian who had stopped breathing
over an hour ago, slipped from the North Face of Everest. He would not
have to spend eternity, as another corpse, frozen in place along the
route.
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