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This will be Himalayan Experience's 6th expedition
to Mt. Everest. Russell Brice, the expedition leader, has twice summited
Everest via this route, and has participated in eight Everest trips
in the past. Himalayan Experience's team of seasoned Sherpas and guides
will be leading a team of eight climbers and five trekkers.
The North Ridge of Everest lays wholly within the country of Tibet.
This is the route pioneered by the British in the 1920's and 30's. It
was the sight of the great Mallory and Irvine epic of 1924, and was
first climbed to the summit in 1974 by a team of Chinese climbers.
The North Ridge differs greatly from Nepal's South Col route. Edmund
Hillary and Tenzing Norgay successfully ascended the South Col route
in 1953. Since then, the South Col route has been ascended by over 800
climbers. The North Ridge has had fewer than 200 successful ascents.
Base camp will be located on the Rongbuk glacier at 5,200 meters. From
here, a rocky trail leads to an Interim Camp and on to Advanced Base
Camp at 6,400 meters. Luckily, most of our gear can be carried the 22
km from BC to ABC by yaks.
. ABC will be our base of operations for the upper mountain. This collection
of tents, complete with our supplies of communication equipment, climbing
gear, oxygen bottles and food, is the center of our expedition's logistical
operations.
The first two thirds of the expedition will be spent organizing these
and the higher camps. Teams of Sherpas and climbers will shuttle gear
ever higher on the peak, establishing camps at 7000 m., 7500 m., 7900
m. and 8300m
Fixed lines (ropes strung along the route and anchored in place) will
connect the camps and lead towards the summit. The fixed lines are a
critical part of the safety system we use. Heavily laden climbers use
the ropes to scale the steeper slopes and weary climbers rely on them
to guide their descent. Even in a storm, a climber attached to the fixed
lines, can find their way to the next camp.
Once the camps are established, we can begin to dream of the summit.
A combination of events are critical to a successful summit day. The
weather must be perfect, light winds and clear skies. And the climbers
have to be acclimatized (the process by which the body adjusts to the
altitude) and healthy.
The North Ridge's primary challenge comes on summit day. The route from
high camp at 8,300 meters climbs through the twisted and blocky yellow
band and onto the crest of the ridge, just below the First Step. Following
the ridge line, up and over the three steps and onto the summit snow
slopes is an airy experience. The Second Step, a 5.8 corner system,
is ascended via a ladder placed there by the Chinese during the first
ascent in 1974. Traversing the ridge, you are treated to spectacular
views of the Kangshung face, which dives for over 3000 meters beneath
your crampons.
The final climb to the summit takes you up a classic pyramid of snow,
slowly flattening at the top. The summit ridge undulates towards the
South Summit and the route rising from the South Col. We are all hoping
to snap photos of ourselves, with this view behind us.
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