For further information and different perspectives on our expedition see coverage also at:
- capgemini.co.uk/everest2000
- mountainzone.com
- earthtreksclimbing.com (a perspective from Chris Warner, mountain guide)

26th April - day 30
A raging success of placing the entire Himex Everest 2000 team (all 19 of us) on the North Col at 7060m (circa. 23.000ft) which, as far as we know, is a first in expedition mountaineering on Everest.

27th April - day 31
Today Russ, Andy and the Sherpa's mount a courageous thrust up the north ridge from the north col to complete rope placement and establish camp 2. The wind just rises and rises as we watch on the telescope from ABC as they push up the ridge, dots silohetted against the skyline occassionaly disappearing in spindrift (wind blown powder snow). Eventually they are beaten back only metres from their goal. An amazing effort and a great show for us down in ABC sitting out on mats with scopes and binoculars, drinking tea and listening to Pink Floyds "wish you were here".

28th April - Day 32
Although the forecast is for high winds above the North Col the ascent to the col is sheltered from westerly winds and so the team set about 2 activities. A load carry to the col of all personal high altitude gear (down suits, gloves, etc.) and some of the team will remain there to sleep and then attempt the north ridge in the morning.
Kieron, performing very strongly, and Ivan and David all successfully drop loads at our camp 1 - the col. Chung gets within some 80m but turns back due to problems with his jumar just below the final ice cliff leading to the Col. Tony down climbes to assist but Chung calls it a day.
Jean electes to stay in ABC today conserving energy for later efforts. None of us can dispute the sense of this call. At 62 and aiming to be the oldest summitteer he has all our respect.
Chris Warner, mountain guide and self confessed popcorn addict; Mark Whettu, mountain guide and high altitude cameraman, Tony and Daniel all settled in for a chilly and windy night at 23,000ft plus. The high winds have already trashed some poorly erected tents of other expeditions. We check our own meticulously. The evening meal is boil in the bag chilli and a brew of tea hurriedly prepared as the sun goes and the temperatures crash to minus 25degC with the wind chill reducing that impressive nunmber even further.

29th April - Day 33
At the North Col Chris, Mark, Tony and Daniel reluctanlty stir from their sleeping bags at around 5:30am. The hore frost from the condensation on the inside of the tent is a good enough alarm as it drips in your face.
Several brews of tea are essential or in the case of Chris and Marks tent some of the specially blended Everest ground coffee (an inspired addition to the team stores by Chris) gets them kick started and its not long before the first smart ass comment floats across the col "pass me one of those doughnuts Mark".
It starts getting windy at around 7:30am when we set out in full down gear up the north ridge. A warning of things to come. The North ridge is a bleak exposed inhospitable windswept snow field that rises up 500m and takes around 5hrs of climbing to the rocks of camp 2. It is heavily corniced on the east side and drops away steeply into the Rongbuk on the west side. Either way 2000ft drops. The safe area is a few metres wide which would be fine but for the wind trying to lift you bodily into the East Rongbuk. The reward it offers is jaw dropping views of Pumori, Cho Oyu, Gaurishankar, Cholatse, Tawache and others.

The wind strength starts to increase the moment we move onto the ridge line. Tony leads out of camp and is soon wrestling with a rope that has buried itself in the cornice overhanging the East Rongbuk by a 2000ft. Chris arrives a few moments later and with his added strength it is soon clear.
Another 30mins of pushing up the ridge with increasingly difficult winds that make standing upright an issue, sees Chris cresting a small rise. A 10mph rise in wind speed put our estimate at around 45 to 50mph with gusts to over 60mph. This is no place to be in increasingly more dangerous conditions and the executive decision is a no brainer.
Chris calls a retreat but not before grabbing some stunning photo's which we will try and send back with this dispatch to post on the websites. The rest of the team have a relatively relaxing day at ABC although at least some of the time was given over to checking and rechecking the security of our tents since anything up to 100mph winds are expected over the next 3 days.

more in few days
Tony Kelly
Advanced Base Camp - 6460m
Everest 2000 - North Side